Watches & Wonders 2023:Guests’ Picks 錶展心水之選(下)

蘇啟泰《MRRM》出版總監
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Lucent Steel

不知何解我對於三文魚色有點難以抗拒,當望著這個加了扭索雕紋裝飾的純金錶盤,更加覺得好像內藏了一個深不可測的故事般,戴上手又貼服得很,感覺是如此的優美雋永。

2023 Novelties

我對於翻轉兩面錶是有種情意結的。這枚簡單的兩針小秒圈酒紅色錶盤搭配在修了身的纖薄玫瑰金錶殼中,藝術氣息濃得化不開,感覺戴上頓時會增加文學修養,要想想翻岀背面後要刻上什麼了。

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 “Puzzle Dial”

生活真的要添些樂趣,萬萬想不到勞力士今年會幫上一把。色彩繽紛的拼圖錶盤已經夠奪目,兩個星期和日曆視窗竟然來個大變身,分別變為7個鼓舞人心的詞彙和31款專屬表情符號,我就希望每一天都是轉出Happy和心心。

Douglas Sung《Spiral Magazine》副總編輯
Panerai Radiomir California PAM01349

對Califronia Dial就是情有獨鍾,配軍綠色錶盤也不錯,但最驚喜是eSteel再造鋼材的舊化塗層,很有歷史感,很有軍事味,很Panerai。

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

要頒個最佳進步獎給帕瑪強尼,Tonda PF帶領品牌上到另一個層次,去年追針GMT,今年追針分鐘,都是將極其複雜的機制,用最輕鬆、簡潔、得體的方式表現出來。

Chopard L.U.C 1860 Lucent Steel

三文魚與熊掌,喜歡Alpine Eagle剛性之下添上一抹柔美,又欣賞L.U.C 1860的36.5mm骨子身形,硬要選一枚,就後者的典雅Guilloche小三針贏了一個馬鼻吧。

Anson Tang《Ming Watch》總編輯
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Lucent Steel

今年總結Watches & Wonders時講過一句這樣的說話:一向蕭邦L.U.C系列都是個人dress watch心水之選,當在現場看到了這枚L.U.C 1860之後,小尺碼錶殼、優美錶盤顏色、加上精緻機芯修飾,順理成章成為全錶展最想擁有的一枚腕錶。錶展結束都兩個月了,這份感覺仍在,真愛啊!錶友與錶的距離,就是等boutique返貨……

Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R-001

周董都唱過:愛情來得太快就像龍捲風。Watch & Wonders第一日,未夠8am已經入場,第一時間衝到Patek門前,等了半小時,display櫃公開今年新錶,從那一刻開始,以24小時顯示的兩地時間新作Ref. 5224R-001,就吸了我的眼球,這是叫Love at first sight吧。

Cartier Santos-Dumont Skeleton

世上有一種唔鍾意,叫作女友唔鍾意。即是你買第一枚腕錶回家,罪名跟你買第N枚腕錶差不多,除非你買Cartier。Cartier是少數獲全球女人們全票一致通過男人可購買的奢侈品牌,今年個人心水為這枚以小飛機作珍珠陀點綴的鏤空Santos,就好像叫大家看準時間做人做事,不要放別人飛機。

Anthony Tsang 東方表行大中華區市場推廣及數碼營銷主管
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 “Puzzle Dial”

好特別的設計,是不會顯示Day & Date的Day-Date,12時位置不顯示星期變成英文Inspired 的詞彙,而3點位置更以31種emoji 表情符號取代日期顯示,再加上各色內填琺瑯拼圖圖案,色彩繽紛,趣味十足。

Tudor Black Bay 54

不鏽鋼「小錶冠」的37mm中性size 非常貼手舒服,size 變細後適合更多人士配戴的潛水錶;復古味濃的三針無日期搭配黑面黑圈雪花針,簡單清晰的百搭選擇。

Oris ProPilot X Kermit

非常sharp的綠色錶盤就是eye-catching ,再留意一下日期窗,在1號時會出現微笑中的Kermit the Frog,令每個月頭開始都唔會覺得blue,好似分享「find your me time」的生活態度一樣。39mm鈦合金材質帶出輕爽有型的感覺。

Helbert Tsang, Co-founder of The Horology Club
Rolex Oyster Perpetual “Celebration Dial”

Rolex released the new Oyster Perpetual with colourful dials 3 years ago which has been very well received by collectors, and this year they have kicked it up a notch and integrated all the different colours into the ‘Celebration’ dial which makes it even more fun. I love that Rolex is showing more of a whimsical side of their brand this year. Watches can sometimes be taken a bit too seriously and it’s important to remember to have a bit of fun.

Cartier Tank Normale

The Tank Normale’s return has been long overdue, but I think the surprise comeback that nobody would have anticipated would be the brushed 7-link brick bracelet (particularly the platinum version), which makes the whole package my absolute favourite release this year. I hope Cartier will continue to make these brick bracelets for the Privé line watches as it would add a completely different dimension to the pieces (hint: please make one for the Cintrée).

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph

It’s great to see JLC bringing back the chronograph to the classic Reverso case. The two sides of the watch present two radically different looks to it which makes the watch very versatile. On the front side, it has a very clean look (particularly with the grey dial on the steel version) with only two hands. But when you flip it over, the back side also shows the time but with additional chronograph indications and a very open architecture where you can see the column wheel and balance wheel. I would find it very hard to decide which side to wear it on if I had one as they’re both very beautiful.

Lawrence Yu《優雅生活》聯合主編
Chopard L.U.C 1860 Lucent Steel

一枚經典腕錶成功與否在於平衡新舊元素。蕭邦的L.U.C 1860完美地實現了這種平衡,個人認為,這枚36.5mm、三文魚guilloche金色錶盤腕錶散發着最優雅的風範,甚至可能是自1997年最初的L.U.C 1860以來,最精彩的作品。

Oris ProPilot X Kermit

如果不扮高深,我認為「腕錶應該為用家帶來歡笑。」這也是Propilot X Kermit Edition腕錶出現的真義。有自家機芯Caliber 400、鈦金屬物料、最醒目搶眼的綠色錶面,這是一枚你看過就會記得而且會心微笑的腕錶。

Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium

勞力士實在太多話題作,但這枚RLX 鈦金屬腕錶比其他鈦合金更好地採用更精細的加工工藝,這枚Yacht-Master 42較輕的重量顯然有利於其航海功能(及佩戴)。輕如鴻毛但重質有型,勞力士,理應如此。

Benjamin Yuen 藝人
Tudor Black Bay 54

本身自己都擁有Tudor Black Bay Bronze,擁有這枚腕錶都有四、五年時間,基本上我覺得它的性價比很高,而且在市場上亦不算太難買到。這枚Black Bay 54吸引到我的地方是採用37毫米、尺寸較小的錶殼,看上去似一枚舊裝錶,再加上經典的黑色錶盤配金色指針,有份穩重的感覺,日常或穿西裝甚至配搭Street Fashion都可以戴上這枚腕錶。

Zenith Defy Revival Shadow

Zenith的El Primero A384計時碼錶是我很想擁有的一枚腕錶,因為曾經推出過一枚Crossover的特別版叫《魯邦三世》,是很難去收藏的作品,有時越難入手反而會越想得到。這枚跟Tudor Black Bay 54相類似的地方都是採用較小的錶殼,特別之處在於錶帶和El Primero A384型號類同,鍊節中央間斷的設計。我現時傾向不太花巧的腕錶,Defy Revival Shadow易於讀時和用上全黑的配色相當有型,任何場合都適合。

Roger Dubuis Knights Of The Round Table

其實我對Roger Dubuis的認識源於品牌常於賽車場合出現,亦曾用賽車的物料造錶。腕錶上有12個迷你的騎士雕像,手工非常出色,外型比之前選擇的兩枚腕錶大,視覺效果誇張,但造工實在令人驚歎。

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